Tag Archives: wool mix

Trousers!

Readers! Something shocking has happened! I’ve started wearing trousers!

Now, to the average modern person, that sounds like a pretty silly statement, but I’ve been going with “trousers only when absolutely necessary” for probably close to five years. Mostly because finding ready-made trousers that were comfy and nice looking seems to be an impossible feat for me (especially since my trouser preferences are permanently stuck in the fifties), and even patterns have failed me before (probably would’ve been OK with tons of adjustments, but that was before I knew what adjustments to make), so I just sort of gave up on trousers all together.

But then I drafted a trouser pattern with my own measurements at school, and WOW! It’s quite a tricky pattern to draw, as basic blocks go, but boy was it worth it. So I went ahead and modified that pattern a bit to fit my desired level of comfiness, and made a pair of vintagey trousers, and a pair of overalls. These pictures are old, taken at the start of the summer (right now it’s cold, dark and wet again), but especially the black pair I’ve been wearing a ton! They have really become a wardrobe staple for me. But enough rambling, and off to the pictures, which were taken by my classmate Elena. Also, I apologize for all the squinting, but my eyes and sunlight don’t go well together.

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Sometimes I attempt actual poses.

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The first pair are made from a black wool blend (though mostly polyester, since they were difficult to iron). I was going for a bit of a pedal pusher look, but made them quite loose for the sake of, once again, comfiness. I also lowered the crotch seam about 1,5cm. They have slanted single-welt pockets on the front, and the trousers are fully lined (!) because I’m all for a bit of everyday luxury.

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The overalls were inspired by women’s wartime working outfits, you know, like this classic pic:

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They are made with the same basic pattern as the black trousers, but a bit wider and with the obvious overalls additions, flaps and straps and such. Very comfy and practical.

 

Yay!

– Sadie

 

 

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The Skirt With No Side Seams

Hi!

I decided a while ago that it would be cool to draft a skirt pattern with no side seams, just to see what I would come up with. So here you go:

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The fabric I used was a light-weight wool mix, which had a bit of stretch. It was easy enough to work with until I got to the invisible zipper on the front, which is still a bit bumpy even though I tried my best to stabilize it… but one has to live with one’s fabric choices I guess. It was also a bit hard to iron. There’s a so called “couture high waist facing” set along the waistline (the technique is explained in a book I have called The Dressmaker’s Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques by Lynda Maynard) which is basically just 10 cm of extra facing strengthened by a layer of organza and “tailor’s canvas” (I used a sort of tough raw cotton) and some rigilene boning. It really helps to keep the waistline smooth, and also helped a bit with the bumpy zipper issue.

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There’s a pocket in one of the front seams, which was a bit of a challenge to make since I’d never done a zippered in-seam pocket before, but I think it looks quite good, at least from the outside (krhm).

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The zipper runs along the other front seam for about 30 cm.

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And oh man, the pattern pieces for this skirt! They are strange! I’m actually kind of proud of them being so odd. The smaller one looks a bit like a flower and the bigger one is like a hammer or something. Gotta keep it interesting.

No side seams

— Sadie

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