Tag Archives: vintagey

Trousers!

Readers! Something shocking has happened! I’ve started wearing trousers!

Now, to the average modern person, that sounds like a pretty silly statement, but I’ve been going with “trousers only when absolutely necessary” for probably close to five years. Mostly because finding ready-made trousers that were comfy and nice looking seems to be an impossible feat for me (especially since my trouser preferences are permanently stuck in the fifties), and even patterns have failed me before (probably would’ve been OK with tons of adjustments, but that was before I knew what adjustments to make), so I just sort of gave up on trousers all together.

But then I drafted a trouser pattern with my own measurements at school, and WOW! It’s quite a tricky pattern to draw, as basic blocks go, but boy was it worth it. So I went ahead and modified that pattern a bit to fit my desired level of comfiness, and made a pair of vintagey trousers, and a pair of overalls. These pictures are old, taken at the start of the summer (right now it’s cold, dark and wet again), but especially the black pair I’ve been wearing a ton! They have really become a wardrobe staple for me. But enough rambling, and off to the pictures, which were taken by my classmate Elena. Also, I apologize for all the squinting, but my eyes and sunlight don’t go well together.

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Sometimes I attempt actual poses.

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The first pair are made from a black wool blend (though mostly polyester, since they were difficult to iron). I was going for a bit of a pedal pusher look, but made them quite loose for the sake of, once again, comfiness. I also lowered the crotch seam about 1,5cm. They have slanted single-welt pockets on the front, and the trousers are fully lined (!) because I’m all for a bit of everyday luxury.

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The overalls were inspired by women’s wartime working outfits, you know, like this classic pic:

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They are made with the same basic pattern as the black trousers, but a bit wider and with the obvious overalls additions, flaps and straps and such. Very comfy and practical.

 

Yay!

– Sadie

 

 

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The Wedding Dress

I have been a remarkably bad blogger over the summer, and I feel crappy about it, to be blunt. I hate it when bloggers disappear for months, while randomly posting apologies about not posting, and promising a change for the better. Which is exactly what I did. So sorry for that. Not blogging for so long has also made it harder to start again, but here I am!

Now for the grand reason of not posting: my friend’s wedding dress! Followed by another reason for not posting, which was a 2½ week trip to San Diego, where the wedding was held, and where said friend now lives.

The dress itself has a simple and even slightly non-formal look to it, but it’s great. And a perfect match for the bride in question. The groom seemed to like it too, and none of the guests gave me any backhanded compliments or anything, so apparently it wasn’t too controversial for the mostly american audience :D

I promised myself that I would take lots of photos of the process of making the dress, but unfortunately I failed at that, since my schedule ended up being tighter than I expected (as it always does), and I was very stressed out, because making this dress meant a lot to me, since this is the first time a friend of mine got married, not to mention moved so far away. But San Diego is a great place, and I’m sure she’ll do great there. babble babble.

Here’s what I have left of months of work: quick pics from the wedding (complete with anonymous decapitated bride), some rare photos from when things were not done yet, and some drawings.

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The wreath was supposed to go all the way around the head, so the veil could have been attached to it neatly from underneath. When it arrived on the wedding day, however, it was a little different, so I had to improvise with attaching the veil, but I think it worked out fine.

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Illusion neckline-thing. Really like this.

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Beads at the hem, each one lovingly sewn on by hand :D

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The back was very tricky to handle — getting all the layers to work with the lacing thing was hard to figure out, and it’s not perfect, but still one of my favourite parts of the dress. Especially the little button at the top.

Thoughts on this dress:

The cotton sateen I used for the non-see-through parts should have been thicker, especially with the corset part, since then it would have taken being stretched out a little better = fewer wrinkles along the waist, etc.

Having two hems that are the exact same length is annoying, since in real life they will always go their separate ways from time to time, as you can see from the pictures above.

I should have studied corset making A LOT more before starting this whole thing. It turned out ok, but again, way too thin, and with too few bones in it. I did add one pair that is not shown in the pic below after the dress was almost done, just because the back was wrinkling waaaaay too much there (might’ve been useful to adjust a bit more for a sway back too, but alas, I missed that while fitting the toile). Also, there were/are annoying wrinkles at the front seams, which I’m fairly certain now are due to the centre front piece having too much of a curve at the top. I managed to fix this problem a bit, but there’s only so much you can do to a problem that should have been fixed during the pattern drafting process.

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Cotton tulle, which I used for the see-through parts, was really easy to work with, and has a nice look to it too (I bought it here). Also, I think it really added to the overall vintage-feel of the dress. Of course, it wrinkles more than synthetic tulle, but it also has a better drape to it.

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I really enjoyed sewing the beads to the hem, bizarrely enough, though it was not a quick process. I might even do some more beading in the future, whenever a little extra formality is required.

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The layers of the dress are as follows:

The see-though part

The non-see-through part

a layer of lining the same shape as the previous part

a layer of cotton flannel (added after everything was pretty much done, to counter the fact that the fabric above it was too thin)  shaped like this:

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The corset with the petticoat attached to it:

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And finally a lining to keep the petticoat from directly touching the legs, as it is a little itchy (I used this tutorial to construct the petticoat, by the way).

That’s six layers all in all. Whew.

 

In the end, I feel nothing but positive feelings towards this dress. It looked very flattering on the bride, she liked it, I like it (despite being terribly neurotic and such), and I learned so much. So, so much. And I just feel so awesome about having had the privilege of making such a dress for such an awesome friend.

And seriously, look at them being all married and stuff:

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– Sadie

 

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School Projects

Hey hey!

I’ve been neglecting my blog for a while now, but a lot has been happening — mostly Christmas — so maybe I’ll be forgiven.

Anyway, I said I’d be posting about what I’ve been up to at school, so here we go. These are only the biggest things though, since we’ve done lots of small stuff along the way, and my newest project — a pair of trousers from a rather gaudy floral fabric — hasn’t been photographed yet.

Our school has its own studio, which is rather awesome, especially here in Finland during the winter, since we really don’t get much natural light at all. You can kind of tell from these pictures that some of the lights were missing (the more recent ones we’ve taken have been much better) or maybe I’ve just never actually taken pictures in a studio before :D . But I admit to nothing of course.

The most time-consuming project and my personal favorite this autumn was making a tailored skirt for my classmate Johanna — who in turn made me a skirt. It’s a short pencil skirt with a raised waistline, pockets, and a tiny belt-thing. She loved it, and I loved making it. The fabric was a bit annoying though, since it had the kind of texture that makes every piece of lint and thread want to stick to it forever.

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A t-shirt with flutter sleeves I made for myself:

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The curse of looking sad in photos is indeed a terrible one.

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A fairly basic college jumper:

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A colour-blocked tunic:

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And a black summer dress thing, which was the product of our first “test”, in which everyone had to make the same garment according to very specific instructions, without consulting the teacher. The front seams looked much better live. In this pic they just kind of look like I forgot to iron them.

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Overall, I’ve been very pleased with school, and my chosen career path. The things we make start from fairly simple looking stuff, since it’s all part of the process of learning to do things “right”. The focus is on quality, and I’ve learned a ton, even though I’ve considered my quality of sewing pretty high before.

So even though I may look a bit sad in photos, inside I mostly feel like over-excited Buffy when it comes to life right now.

– Sadie

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